Delhi

The City of Djinns is a bargain – travellers arriving in the capital of India will not only find two very different cities in one, the bustling and slightly chaotic ‘Old Delhi’ in the north, and the elegant, elitist ‘New Delhi’ in the south, but also a fair amount of historic sights which are well-preserved, photogenic and simply take your breath away.

Delhi is the perfect point of transition between the East and the West because of its wide expansive roads, elegant and appealing architecture, lush gardens (which are kept alive at a great cost to the water reservoirs) and a westernized fast-paced urban life while still retaining the charm of India. We are, of course, referring to the herd of stray cows settling down in the middle of a flyover, disrupting the flow of traffic, but never incurring the wrath of drivers, or the lively markets in Old Delhi where you get virtually anything if you have nerves of steel and resist wheedling shop-keepers and their assistants.

Bargaining, by the way, (or should we say haggling?) runs in the blood of the Dehliwala. Nothing cheers them more than a good haggle – which can be stressful, especially if you are not used to the idea that EVERYTHING is negotiable. This includes taxi fares or a ride with one of the city’s auto-rikshaws: Don't expect the existence of a meter to mean they will be used!


Location and how to get there

Delhi is located in northern India on the banks of the river Yamuna, flanked by the states of Uttar Pradesh and Haryana. The capital of India, it is the second largest city in India after Mumbai and a hub for international and domestic flights.

For budget travel to Rajasthan, Chandigarh or the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh, you can get on a bus at the Inter State Bus Terminal at Kashmiri Gate, north of the 'Old' Delhi Train Station.

Travelling by train across India can be an experience of a lifetime and has much improved in safety and security in the last couple of years. New Delhi Train Station is a hub for Indian Railways and from here you can organize trips to every corner of India.

Language(s)

Being the capital, Delhi attracts people from all parts of the nation. Hindi is the official language of India and is most commonly spoken as are Punjabi, Urdu and English.


The People

A large part of Delhi's population is made out of workers who have migrated from other northern states of India. The diversity in regional and religious backgrounds is fascinating and yet you can spot a pukka Delhiwala from miles away.

Tough, business-minded and self-confident (which is most probably the result of living in India’s seat of power), the Delhiwalla is known for resilience, cunning and shrewdness. A raw sense of humour is intrinsic with the man in the street and the rising middle class. The city of dilwalas (people with heart) will, however, take you by surprise when helping you out or taking your side in an argument when you least expect it.


Delhi, the capital of India

Walking through Delhi is like reading a book on the history of India. As one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, Delhi’s origins can be traced back to the second millennium BC and some even believe that it once was the site of Indraprastha, the capital of the Pandavas in the epic Mahabharata.

Ever since its beginnings, Delhi has always had a fatal attraction for foreign rulers looking to expand their country’s borders or fill their depleted state treasuries. And so Delhi was regularly invaded and plundered by Afghans, Turks, Persians and Mongols. Destroyed and built up again seven times in a row, today’s Delhi includes all the forts and townships that each new ruler built.

  In 1526 Zahiruddin Babur founded the Mughal Empire that ruled India for 300 years and during its time Delhi became the centre of Sufism. In 1857 Delhi came under British control and in 1911 Delhi was declared the capital of British India. Following the struggle for independence, New Delhi was officially declared the seat of the Government of India and the capital of the republic on 15th August 1947.


Famous Places to Visit

Start by visiting the Raj Ghat, the resting place of the politician and freedom fighter Mahatma Gandhi, also referred to as ‘the Father of the Nation’. Assassinated in 1948, the place where Gandhi was cremated is a homage ground for hundreds of people.

The Rajpath – literally known as the King’s Way – is the ceremonial avenue of the Republic of India. Thousands of people flock to the Rajpath every year to watch the  impressive military parades performed on Republic Day (26 January).  Along the Rajpath are most important landmarks of Delhi: the Rahstrapati Bhavan (the official residence of the President of India), the Parliament House of India, and the India Gate, a monument which commemorates the Indian soldiers who died during World War I and the Afghan War. Since 1971 it also houses the Amar Jawan Jyoti, the flame of the immortal warrior, to mark the Unknown Soldier’s Tomb.

 The Red Fort in Old Delhi is the former seat of power of Mughal India and it is from here that the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan ruled Delhi. It still holds a lot of significance, as every year on August 15th the Prime Minister addresses the nation after hoisting the tricolor atop the fort. The fort lies along the Yamuna River which fed the moat that surround most of the wall.

In the vicinity of the Red Fort is Chandni Chowk, the old city’s famous shopping street. Indian to its core, its lanes and bylanes snake around the shops that sell books, clothes, food items, leather goods, and what-have-you! Chandni Chowk is famous for The Ghantewala Halwai, the oldest sweet shop in the area. A landmark in itself and so named because legend has it that, when the royal procession passed down the streets of Chandni Chowk, the Emperor would stop and be offered the delicacies of this place, as would his elephant. In due course the elephant came to know the shop so well that procession or no, he would stand outside the shop and shake his head till he was offered sweets. The shaking of the elephant’s head resulted in the loud ringing of the bell that was tied around its neck, hence the name!

Close by you will see the two lofty minarets of the Jama Masjid, the principal mosque of Old Delhi and a beautiful example of Islamic architecture. It is one of the largest and best known mosques in India. It also houses several priceless relics, like a copy of the Koran written on deer skin.

The Old Fort is the oldest historical site in Delhi. It was constructed in the sixteenth century, but was vacated after the fall of its ruler, as it was considered cursed. As a result the Red Fort was constructed. At present the Old Fort houses the Delhi Zoo, Delhi’s largest zoological park and boat club.

Further outside is Qutub Minar, the tallest brick minaret in the world. It was built because the Muslim ruler of Delhi at that time was inspired by the Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan wanted to surpass it. The minaret was built between 1193-1368 and has many fine examples of Indian art work built around it. Also within the Qutub complex you will find the iron pillar of Delhi, one of the world's foremost metallurgical curiosities.

 Once you have had enough of driving around town, you should sample one of Delhi’s many parks. It contains architectural works of the Lodhis, a pashtun Muslim dynasty which ruled much of Northern India during the 16th century. The gardens are situated between Khan Market and Safdarjung's Tomb  – lush, green and romantic it is an awesome place for a stroll at dawn or dusk or a secret meeting with a lover.

For the less romanticaly inclined and if traveling with family, you should pay Appu Ghar a visit. Named after the mascot of the 1982 Asian Games held in New Delhi, Appu Ghar is a leisure park located at Pragamati Maidan and spread over 15.5 acres of land. It houses twenty-two immensely popular rides. Recently a Water Park encompassing 3.5 acres of land was added to its attractions.

Next on the list is the Fun `N Food Village, which is located just 3km away from the Delhi International Airport. It holds the record for the longest water slide in the country – 400 feet long. It also boasts of an indoor Snow Park which covers 2500 km. It’s one of the favorite getaways during the hot and sultry and months, as also the coolest place to hang out over the weekend.


Food and Restaurants

Foodies will love Delhi because, no matter what type of food you fancy, you will definitely not fall short of choice or quality in Delhi! Delhi’s dhabas and restaurants obviously are famous for their Mughal cuisine, kebabs, and sweets.

Try Sohanwala, a sweet made from dry fruit, sprouts and sugar, and when out in Chandni Chowk you should pay Natraj’s Dahi Bhalle a visit. It dates backs to 1950 and is patronized by many famous politicians and film stars. It serves the tangy Dahi Bhalle – a typical Punjabi dish of curd and spices.

Another tangy delicacy is the Chaat (fruit salad garnished with lots of spices and lemon juice), available at Chaatwallah, which has been running a small shop in the area since 1923. A must is also Gianiji ka Falooda, a shop that dates back to the time of India’s independence and is famous for its Rabri Falooda – milk starch and rice noodles served with crushed ice.

The Gali Paranthe Walee or the lane of the fried bread is a place is to indulge in gastronomic delicacies: it serves more than hundred types of paranthas – that wholesome and sinful North Indian delicacy! Easy on the pocket and at the same time great on the taste buds.


Shopping

Delhi is a shopper’s paradise – when visiting, you should definitely set a couple of hours aside to do justice for Delhi’s fabulous shops: whether its textiles, crafts, carpets, brass ware, clothes, jewellery, designer fashion or antique vases and artifacts – in Delhi you can virtually shop till you drop – even if you are on a string budget.

One hot tip is Dilli Haat, situated in the heart of Delhi. An upgraded version of the traditional weekly market spread over a spacious six acre area with and a traditional village architectural style. It offers a  wide variety of skilfully crafted handicrafts, intrinsic to each part of India. These range from intricate rosewood and sandalwood carvings, embellished camelhide footwear, to sophisticated fabric and drapery. 

Dilli Haat, Sri Aurobindo Marg, Opp. INA Market, New Delhi, India 110023.


The Festival of Light

Delhi is one of the best places in the country to celebrate the annual festival of Diwali, the festival of Light.

Preparations for Diwali start weeks ahead and just like Christmas time in the West, people set out on a frantic spree of shopping, spring-cleaning, whitewashing and redecorating,  and the shops and market are decorated with festive lights, embark on a frenzy of sales and promotional offers.

Melas and fairs crop up everywhere and temporary stages are erected everywhere for holding the Ramlila - a dramatic rendition of the story of the Ramayan, which continues for several evenings, culminating in the defeat of Evil (Ravanna) by Good (Ram) on Dussehra Day.
 
Traditionally many people buy new clothes to wear on Diwali. At night the city lights up in the glow of oil lamps and fire works light up the sky.